Due to Covid and this pandemic the fashion industry is definitely going through several changes and lots of unknown lies ahead like every other industry is experiencing. But with the fashion industry being a $2.5 trillion industry they have to figure out how to move around and all of the people in this industry such as myself have to figure out possible new and more creative ways to get their work to consumer and even the type of work that they do (which many of us have been). Of course this week would’ve been NYFW and y’all know I would’ve been there because I haven’t missed a September fashion week in about 2-3 years so yes I’m a little devastated about that but that just means that next year will be even better and Covid free (hopefully). But there has been several changes in the fashion industry over the past couple of years and decades due to the changes in the world and it has adapted in different ways and on different scales so many brands, creatives, artists, and people in the fashion industry have adapted themselves in the fashion industry over the last couple of years.
I think that on a larger scale yes we are seeing several brands drown and close or not have the resources to do things the way they used to but there are also lots of Black creatives that are thriving especially due to social media and what you can present to your consumers quickly and easily, now creatives may not be working towards being in the elitist part of a fashion industry that is white washed (and possibly drowning because its stuck in its ways) but they are solely worried about being accepted, respected and supported by other Black people and becoming known and selling out in only minutes because of the reach they have with their audience and their customers trust them and the brand they built so that brand no longer needs a Vogue or other high fashion brand stamp to be successful but they definitely strive for it and get it along the way. But as we all know whatever is becoming popular in the Black community or on social media that the fashion industry is going to follow and watch closely.
High Fashion is still continuing to sell and be something that upcoming Fashion professionals want to be apart of but now you don’t need to work so hard to try to impress the gatekeepers that are trying to look in the opposite direction of you but you need to focus on actually working hard and doing the groundwork, being authentic and building an audience and staying true to your vision and the reward and recognition will never be far behind.
Three Black designers that have been making a major impact in the fashion industry for awhile now but especially during this pandemic (also three of my faves) are: Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Anifa Mvuemba of Hanifa and Telfar Clemens of Telfar Global. They have been doing amazing things, making huge change, making an impact in the industry and getting the recognition they deserve but they are all brands that seek to strive more for authentic support that they’ve earned than recognition from hierarchies but they are now getting both.
Last year during September Fashion Week I attended both the Telfar and Pyer Moss shows and they were both absolutely amazing. Pyer Moss Collection 3 show saved NYFW last year if you ask me, the shows were lack luster as I feel the Fashion Industry has lacked lots of creativity for awhile now (mostly due to budgeting and the fact that brands are improperly trying to modernize themselves) but Pyer Moss as always showed up and showed out and of course holds creativity at the same standard as talent and its definitely apart of a detailed creative process, Kerby Jean Raymond has constantly been making a statement since he started doing what he does but he especially makes a cultural statement with Pyer Moss and showcases us in the highest light and with ultimate and unmatched creativity. Also over the spand of one to two years we’ve seen Anifa grow Hanifa to a million dollar business, we’ve seen her get press and recognition, we’ve seen her featured in Teen Vogue, we’ve seen Anna Wintour show excitement and interest in Hanifa, and now during this pandemic we’ve seen Hanifa break the damn internet and set a trend that many will try but can’t duplicate.
During the Pandemic:
Kerby Jean-Raymond:
During this Pandemic I haven’t seen Kerby himself say much (other than business) but when your work speaks for you you don’t have to. Over the past couple of months we have seen his pieces on different celebrities for major magazine covers and spreads such as Zendaya for Instyle styled by Law Roach and she was also wearing a Hanifa look, the icon and legend Angela Davis wore Pyer Moss on the cover of Vanity Fair September issue styled by Nicole Chapteau fashion director at Vanity Fair, he released his Experiment 4 “The Innocence Project” in support of the organization and their support of helping the wrongfully convicted and innocent, Aurora James of Brother Vellies wore Pyer Moss on her painted cover of the Vogue September Issue painted by Jordan Casteel, Amandla Stenberg wearing Collection 3 Pyer Moss for Emmy Magazine back in May. As well as his major efforts back at the beginning of the pandemic in March with two initiatives, one to provide resources and basic supplies to front line workers in which he donated $10,000+ as well as turning his office into a donation center, and the second to provide resources to small businesses where he donated $78,000+. Clearly we see that even in this pandemic Kerby Jean-Raymond and his team have continued to do great things from his work being featured on several major covers and him continuing to be for the people and focused on community by giving back and helping where he can.
Telfar Clemens:
So as we all know over the past couple of months we’ve all been trying to get a Telfar shopping bag. It was coined the “it” bag last year by major platforms like Vogue and Harpers Bazaar and clearly a year later things have only gotten better. Last year when I went to the Telfar show and release party for some other items is when I should’ve gotten my bag because now no matter how on time and prepared I am for a drop I can’t seem to even get past checkout its like Black Friday every time (but that’s great! I can’t even be mad). The first drop there was a problem with bots and resellers buying up 20+ bags and reselling them for triple the price so Telfar closed the site until him and his team could figure out how to sort out the bots and get rid of them so real customers could get their bags which is major because many brands don’t care who’s buying as long as it sells but to care about your real customers and the people you started this for and them getting their product and keeping it at an affordable price so everyone can afford it is amazing and says a lot about his morals and values. After that first drop they came back with different bot screening techniques like captcha before getting to check out and resellers getting new bags have declined and essentially become nonexistent. Every time before a drop it is announced on their Instagram page a day or two before stating the time, date and what will be available and every single drop things are gone in one minute and we love that for all of our Black business owners. Also Telfar released a Bag Security program a couple of weeks ago where on one day for 24 hours everything was available on the site for purchase to secure your bag if you don’t want to deal with drops and you will receive your items no later than January but there will still be more drops between now and then, many people loved being able to get their bags without the hassle and frustration of things selling out or having to rush but if you’re like me you can’t wait that long for your item to come and you’ll keep up with their Instagram to be notified for all upcoming drops. Telfar has been working hard for many years and making an impact and he is a prime example of your products popping even harder a year later. Also for those that had their Telfar bags or knew about Telfar before the demand and popularity increased stop hating on the people that want to enjoy affordable Black luxury and get their Telfar bag. Telfar is helping to redefine luxury and how you can have not only affordable luxury but Black affordable luxury and getting rid of resellers while doing it .
Anifa Mvuemba:
Anita has been making amazing quality luxury pieces for the girls for awhile now and she made her company Hanifa a million dollar business far before this pandemic and is young, fly and beautiful while doing it. But on May 22nd she released her Pink Label Congo collection with a 3D fashion show on Instagram Live and it was impeccably done and the first of its kind, she really showed us how you put on a fashion show in a pandemic VIRTUALLY and how you adjust to circumstances with quality, the clothes walked down the runway themselves and was giving all types of body like a person was actually wearing them like how the hell do you even make clothes look so good and form fitting in 3D, everyone was mindblown and in awe of not only the production and how it allowed you to imagine the clothes on yourself, but the amazing pieces and the energy they gave you just looking at them which caused them to sell out, Black women man. Aside from Anifa’s amazing show for Hanifa that she was the first to do and many may try to replicate but can’t pieces from the Pink Label Congo collection have been seen on Zendaya for the September issue of InStyle styled by Law Roach and Tracee Ellis Ross for the September issue of Elle Magazine styled by Shiona Turini as well as several other beautiful Black women in the pieces all on the gram. Anifa herself was also featured and interviewed for The New York Times and had a spread in Essence Magazine’s September/October issue in both she is of course wearing and talking about her brand and its successes that she definitely deserves. Anifa is showing us all that following our path and staying true to our vision will get us very far.
All three of these designers are amazing at what they do, they are people you should definitely become familiar with especially if you are trying to be in the fashion industry because they are apart of the new fashion generation that is making impactful change while having unmatched talent and they are helping to shed light on Black luxury and its importance and showing people that high priced items owned and created by white people isn’t the only luxury and just because it has that title and price point doesn’t make it the best. We have to contine to support our Black owned businesses, sale them out of their products because that’s a great thing and help them grow their business to exponential growth.
if you want to see the Pyer Moss show from last year that I attended click here
Me at the Telfar Clemens show last year to watch click here
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